Founded In 1510, San Juan, the capital of Puerto Rico, spreads out along the northern coast and also inland. Its nucleus is Old San Juan, a seven square block walled area, sitting on a point of land between the Atlantic Ocean and San Juan Bay. Old San Juan is filled with history and culture, and is a living museum. It is preserved in all its natural grace and beauty, and at 500 years of age is far from being decrepit. Some of its narrow streets are paved with small blue-gray cobblestones which came to the port hundreds of years ago as ships' ballast.

El Bosque Nacional Del Caribe Take Route 3 East From San Juan And Turn Right South On Route 191, About 25 mi. from the city. stop in at the Centro De Información El Portal El Portal Tropical Forest Information Center on route 191 at the entrance to the park. 787/888-1810 Daily 9-5 Admission is charged The best way to see the 28,000-Acre Caribbean National Forest (Or El Yunque, as it's commonly known) is to go with a tour guide. Dozens of trails lead through the thick rain forest, and guides take you to the best observation points, bathing spots, and waterfalls.

La Fortaleza 721-7000 Ext 2211 9:00-4:00 Mon-Fri Guided tours in English on the hour, in Spanish every 30 minutes The governor's palace, built between 1533 and 1540, was used as a fortress against Carib attacks but greatly expanded in the 19th century. It is believed to be the oldest executive residence in continuous use in the western hemisphere. Access to the official areas is not permitted.

Catedral De San Juan 153 Calle Cristo 787/722-0861 Weekdays 8:30-4; Masses Sat. 7 pm, Sun. 9 am; 11 am, Weekdays 12:15 Built in the 16th century but extensively restored in the 19th and 20th. the remains of Ponce de León are in a marble tomb near the transept. The Catholic shrine of Puerto Rico had humble beginnings in the early 1520s as a thatch-topped wooden structure. Hurricane winds tore off the thatch and destroyed the church. It was reconstructed in 1540, when the graceful circular staircase and vaulted Gothic ceilings were added, but most of the work was done in the 19th century.

Centro Ceremonial Indígena De Tibes 787/840-2255 Or 787/840-5685 Admission charged. Tues.day - Sunday 9-4. Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center. At Tibes, are found pre-Taíno ruins and burials dating from ad 300 to ad 700. Some archaeologists, noting the symmetrical arrangement of stone pillars, surmise the cemetery may have been of great religious significance. The complex includes a detailed re-creation of a Taíno village and a museum.

Castillo Serrallés 17 El Vigía Hill, 787/259-1774. Admission Charged. Tues.-Sun. 9:30-5. A splendid Spanish revival mansion perched on El Vigía Hill that recalls the era of the sugar barons. After hurricane damage, El Morro Trail, a jogger's paradise, is being reconstructed. The trail provides Old Town's most scenic views across the harbor. The first part extends to the San Juan Gate; it then goes by the well-preserved walls of El Morro, a 16th-century fort, and eventually reaches a scenic area known as Bastion de Santa Barbara. The trail is designed to follow the rhythm of the movement of the ocean surf, and sea grapes and tropical vegetation surround benches that are perfect for a rest. The walk is romantic at night, when the walls of the fortress are illuminated.

Fuerte San Felipe Del Morro/Fuerte San Cristóbal Daily 9:00-5:00 Small admission charge. San Felipe Del Morro was built in 1591 to defend the entrance to the harbour, and the 11-hectare fort san cristóbal was completed in 1772 to support El Morro and to defend the landward side of the city. The massive six-level fortress covers enough territory to accommodate a nine-hole golf course. It is a labyrinth of dungeons, barracks, turrets, towers, and tunnels. its small, air-conditioned museum traces the history of the fortress. Tours and a video show are available in English.

Plaza Del Quinto Centenario The Plaza Del Quinto Centenario, Inaugurated On 12 October 1992 To Commemorate The 500th Anniversary Of Columbus' Landing, is a modernistic square on several levels with steps leading to a central fountain with hundreds of jets good view of El Morro, the cemetery and sunsets.

Bicardi Plant 787-788-1500 2.5 miles west of Cataño at km 2.6 on State Road 888, across the straits from El Morro Castle, is the world's largest rum factory. Take the ferry and then a taxi. Displays and samples are offered. A one hour tour leaves every 30 minutes. Mon-Sat 8:30-4:30 Free admission.

Cuartel De Ballajá 724-5052 Mon-Frid 10:00-4:00, Sat-Sun 11:00-5:00 Guided Tours Available Weekdays 1030, 1130, 1230 And 2:00 Free Once the barracks for Spanish Troops and their families, was also inaugurated 12 October 1992 with the museum of the americas on the second floor tracing the cultural development of the history of the new world.

Dominican Convent 724-0700 Chapel museum open Wed-Sun 9:00-12:00, 1:00-4:30 Built in the early 16th century, later used as a headquarters by the US Army, is now the office of the institute of culture, with a good art gallery. Cultural events are sometimes held in the patio, art exhibitions in the galleries.

Iglesia De San José Calle San Sebastián, Plaza De San José, 787/725-7501. Admission Free. Mon-Sat 8:30-4:00, Sun Mass at noon With its vaulted ceilings, this is a splendid example of 16th-century Spanish Gothic architecture. The church, one of the oldest in the western hemisphere, was built in 1532 under the supervision of Dominican friars. The body of Ponce de León was buried here for almost 300 years before being moved in 1913 to the Catedral De San Juan.

Casa De Los Contrafuertes 724-5949 Wed-Sun 9:00-4:30 Early 18th Century, believed to be the oldest private residence in the old city, now has periodic art exhibitions on the second floor and a small pharmacy museum with 19th century exhibits on the ground floor.

Casa Blanca 1 Calle San Sebastián 724-4102 Tue-Sun 9:00-12:00, 1:00-4:30 Guided Tours Tue-Fri By Appointment. Admission charged. Built in 1523 by the family of Ponce De León, who lived in it for 250 years until it became the residence of the Spanish and then the US military Commander-in-Chief. It is now a historical museum which is well worth a visit.

The Alcaldía, Or City Hall 724-7171 Ext 2391 Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00 Except Holidays Built 1604-1789.

The Intendencia 722-2121 Mon-Fri 8:00-12:00, 1:00-4:30 Formerly the Spanish colonial exchequer, a fine example of 19th century Puerto Rican Architecture, now houses Puerto Rico's State Department.

The Naval Arsenal 724-5949 Wed-Sun 9:00-12:00, 1:00-4:30 The last place in Puerto Rico to be evacuated by the Spanish in 1898, exhibitions are held in three galleries.

Casa Del Callejón 725-5250 Both Museums Closed For Restoration A restored 18th-century house containing two colonial museums, the architectural and the Puerto Rican Family.

Reserva Natural Las Cabezas De San Juan The reserve is open to the public, by reservation only, Friday-Sunday and to tour groups Wednesday-Thursday. Tours are given on request in advance, by phone four times Daily; An English tour is available at 2 Pm. Rte. 987, Km 5.8 787/722-5882 Or 787/860-2560 Admission Is $5.  More Info Most of Puerto Rico's natural habitats are rolled into Las Cabezas Reserve's 316 acres. nineteenth-century El Faro, one of the island's oldest lighthouses, is restored and still functioning. The wide variety of birds makes this a favorite spot for bird watchers.

Jardín Botánico (Botanical Garden) Intersection Of Rtes. 1 and 847 at entrance to Barrio Venezuela, Río Piedras 787/767-1710. Admission free. Daily 9-4:30 The main attraction at the University of Puerto Rico is the lush 75-acre forest of more than 200 species of tropical and subtropical vegetation. Gravel footpaths lead to a graceful lotus lagoon, a bamboo promenade, an orchid garden with some 30,000 plants, and a palm garden. Signs are in Spanish and English. Trail maps are available at the entrance gate.

Additional Museums

Pablo Casals Museum 723-9185 Tue-Sat 9:30-5:30 Pablo Casals museum is in an 18th century house beside San José church, with Casals' cello and other memorabilia.

San Juan Museum Of Art And History Norzagaray Y Macarthur 724-1875 Tue-Sun 10:00-4:00 Built in 1855 as a marketplace, now a cultural centre with exhibition galleries.

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico 787/977-6277 399 De Diego Avenue in Santurce Tuesday through Sunday 10 - 5 Admission is $5 for adults and $3 for children, seniors, and the disabled The museum's gallery is open to the public on Wednesdays until 8pm for special interactive and educational programs. Launched in the summer of 2000, this is one of the island's most important art. museums. It houses more than 250 pieces, including works by two of Puerto Rico's most recognized artists: Campche and Rafael Tufiño. Visitors may also view works by gifted international artists, attend films in the state-of-the-art theater, or participate in classes in the 5 acre sculpture garden.

Observatorio De Arecibo This facility is part of the National Astronomy and Ionosphere Center of Cornell University. Rte. 625 787/878-2612. Admission Charged Wed.-Fri. Noon-4, Weekends 9-4. The town of Arecibo is home to the world's largest radar/radio telescope: a 20-acre dish, with a 600-ton suspended platform hovering over it, sits in a 565-ft-deep sinkhole. Visitors can take a self-guided tour of the observatory. This is where where groundbreaking work in astronomy, including SETI, the Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence, continues.

Casa Del Libro 723-0354 Tue-Sat, Except Holidays, 11:00-4:30 An 18th century house on Calle Cristo, has a collection of rare books, including some over 400 years old.

Museum of the Sea 725-2532 On pier one, with a collection of maritime instruments and models. Open when the pier is open for cruise ships.

Museo De Arte De Ponce Ponce Museum Of Art Av. Las Américas, 787/848-0505 Or 787/848-0511 Admission charged Daily 10-5.

The Indian Museum Calle San José 109 On The Corner Of Luna 724-5477 Or 722-1709 Tue-Sat 9:00-4:00 No admission charge The Indian museum concentrates on Puerto Rican indigenous cultures, With exhibits, ceramics and archaeological digs.

Fort San Jerónimo 77245949 Wed-Sun 9:30-12:00, 1:00-4:30 Another museum in the old city, it is a military museum.

Río Piedras 755-7979 Tue-Sat 9:00-1:00 Founded In 1714 but became incorporated into San Juan in 1951. On the edge of Río Piedras, the gardens and library of the former governor, Luis Muñoz Marín, are open to the public, with a museum showing his letters, photos and speeches.

The University Of Puerto Rico 764-0000, Ext 2452 Mon-Fri 9:00-9:00, Weekends 9:00-3:00 The University of Puerto Rico at Río Piedras is in a lovely area. The University Museum has archaeological and historical exhibitions, and also monthly art exhibitions.

Botanical Garden 250-0000 Ext 6580 Daily 9:00-4:30 The Botanical Garden at the agricultural experiment station has over 200 species of tropical and subtropical plants, a bamboo promenade one variety can grow four feet in a day, an orchid garden over 30,000 orchids, and an aquatic garden.

Hato Rey The financial district of San Juan nicknamed 'The Golden Mile'.

Luís Muñoz Marín Park Avenida Jesús T Piñero Tue-Sun 9:00-5:00 Covers 35 Hectares, which can be toured by a one kilometre cable car.

Parque Luis Muñoz Marín Next To Las A Admission Free; Parking $1 Per Vehicle. Tues.-Sun. 9-5. This idyllic 90-acre tree-shaded park is dotted with gardens, lakes, playgrounds, and picnic areas. An aerial gondola connects it with the parking area and provides a 61/2-minute tour of the grounds. An outdoor amphitheater is the venue for plays, concerts, and folk performances.

Museum Of Contemporary Puerto Rican Art Santurce The Sacred Heart University 268-0049 Tue-Sat 9:00-4:00, Sunday 11:00-5:00

Fine Arts Center 724-4751 Opened in 1981, with theatres and halls at the corner of De Diego and Ponce De León.

Parque De Las Cavernas Del Río Camuy Rte. 129, Km 20 787/898-3100 or 787/898-3136 Admission and parking fee. Tues.-Sun. 8-4. Last tour starts At 3:50 The 250-Acre Río Camuy reserve contains one of the world's largest cave networks. Tours take you on a tram down through dense tropical vegetation to the cave entrance, where you continue on foot over underground trails, ramps, and bridges. The caves, sinkholes, and subterranean streams are all spectacular. Be sure to call ahead; the tours allow only a limited number of people, and hours change slightly in the off-season.

San Cristóbal Admission Charged. Daily 9-5. 787/729-6960   More Info This 18th-Century fortress guarded the city from land attacks. even larger than El Morro, San Cristóbal was known in its heyday as the Gibraltar of the West Indies.

Miramar A residential area having several moderately priced hotels as well as some expensive ones. Miramar is separated from the Atlantic coast by the Condado Lagoon and the Condado Beach area, where the luxury hotels, casinos, nightclubs and restaurants are concentrated. From Condado the beach front is built up eastwards through Ocean Park, Santa Teresita, Punta Las Marías and Isla Verde. Building is expanding along the narrow strip beyond Isla Verde, between the Sea and the airport. Along this road, Avenida Boca De Cangrejos, there are lots of food trucks selling barbecued specialties.

Scuba Diving And Snorkeling

The diving is excellent off Puerto Rico's south, east, and west coasts as well as its offshore islands. it's best to choose specific locations with the help of a guide or outfitter, who will know current conditions and safety concerns. Snorkeling and scuba instruction, equipment rentals, and tours are available at the following:

Boquerón Dive Shop Main St., Boquerón, 787/851-2155.

Caribbean School Of Aquatics Taft St. No. 1, Suite 10f, San Juan, 787/728-6606.

Caribe Aquatic Adventures Radisson Normandie Hotel, Corner of Av. Rosales And Av. Muñoz Rivera, Puerta De Tierra, San Juan, 787/724-1882 Or 787/281-8858.

Coral Head Divers Palmas Del Mar, Rte. 906, Humacao, 787/850-7208 Or 800/635-4529.

Dive Copamarina Copamarina Beach Resort, Rte. 333, Km 6.5, Guánica, 787/821-0505, Ext. 729, Or 800/468-4553

Mundo Submarino Laguna Garden Shopping Center, Av. Baldorioty De Castro, Carolina, 787/791-5764.

Parguera Divers Training Center Hotel Posada Por Lamar, Rte. 304, Km 3.3, La Parguera, 787/899-4171.

Puerto Rican Diver Supply A-E6 Santa Isidra 111, Fajardo, 787/863-4300.

Shopping

Popular items include: Santos, which are small hand-carved figures of saints or religious scenes; hand-rolled cigars; handmade Mundillo lace from Aguadilla; Veijigantes: colorful masks made of papier-mâché and coconut husks which are used during Carnival; and fancy men's shirts Called Guayaberas.

Jewelry Reinhold 201 Calle Cristo Old San Juan, 787/725-6878.

Watch and Gem Palace 204 Calle San José, Old San Juan, 787/722-2136. (brand-name watches)

Art Galleries Corinne Timsit International Galleries 104 Calle San Jose, Old San Juan, 787/724-1039 Features work by contemporary Latin American painters.

Galería Gotay 212 Calle San Francisco, Old San Juan, 787/722-5726 Carries contemporary art.

Galería San Juan Gallery Inn 204-206 Calle Norzagaray, Old San Juan, 787/722-1808 Sculptures of artist Jan D'esopo.

Dmr Gallery 204 Calle Luna, Old San Juan, 787/722-4181 Handmade furniture by artist Nick Quijano.

Galería Botello 208 Calle Cristo, Old San Juan, 787/723-2879 Plaza Las Américas, Av. Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Hato Rey, San Juan, 787/754-7430 Exhibits and sells antique Santos.

Haitian Gallery 367 Calle Fortaleza, Old San Juan, 787/725-0986 The store carries Puerto Rican crafts and a selection of inexpensive paintings from around the Caribbean.

Instituto De Cultura Puertorriqueña 98 Calle Norzagaray, Old San Juan, 787/721-6866 In the Dominican convent on the North side of the old city. Shop for baskets, masks, Cuatro guitars, santos, books and tapes, and Indian artifacts.

Puerto Rican Arts & Crafts 204 Calle Fortaleza, Old San Juan, 787/725-5596.

The Artisan Markets Sixto Escobar Park Calle Cuevillas, Puerta de Tierra, San Juan, 787/722-0369 Luis Muñoz Marín Park Next to Las Américas expressway West on Av. Piñero, Hato Rey, San Juan, 787/763-0568.

Hathaway Factory Outlet 203 Calle Cristo, Old San Juan, 787/723-8946 Discounts on Hathaway shirts and Christian Dior clothing.

The Polo/Ralph Lauren Factory Store 201 Calle Cristo, Old San Juan, 787/722-2136. Discounts on Ralph Lauren apparel.

Tommy Hilfiger Outlet 206 Calle Cristo, Old San Juan, 787/721-4888

London Fog Factory Outlet 156 Calle Cristo, Old San Juan, 787/722-4334 Offers reductions on men's, women's, and children's raincoats.

The Harley Davidson Boutique 313 Calle Fortaleza, 787/721-4202 Harley t-shirts, jeans, sunglasses, and riding leathers.

Marshall's Plaza De Armas Old San Juan, 787/722-0874 Basic clothing and department store items.

Plaza Las Américas Av. Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Hato Rey, South Of San Juan. 200 shops, restaurants, and movie theaters. Old San Juan is full of shops, especially on Cristo, Fortaleza, and San Francisco streets. the stores are all within walking distance of each other, and trolleys are plentiful.

Nightlife

Lelolai is a year-round festival that celebrates Puerto Rico's Indian, Spanish, and African Heritage. Performances take place each week, moving from hotel to hotel, showcasing the island's music, folklore, and culture.. For information, contact The Lelolai office 787/723-3135 weekdays; 787/791-1014 weekends and evenings.

The newest hot spot is San Juan Chateau (tel. 787/751-2000; 9 Chardon Ave., (Hato Rey), which has become the most popular venue for merengue and salsa. It's most active on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday nights. Hacienda Country Club, a 25-minute drive out of San Juan on the road to Caguas (tel. 787/747-9692). Live musicians entertain outdoors surrounded by mountains.

Blue Dolphin 2 Calle Amapola, Isla Verde, 787/791-3083

Hard Rock Cafe 253 Recinto Sur, Old San Juan, 787/724-7625

El Patio De Sam 102 Calle San Sebastián, Old San Juan, 787/723-1149 This is an old San Juan institution whose clientele claims it serves the best burgers on the island. the dining room is full of potted plants and has strategically placed canopies that create the illusion of dining on an outdoor patio.

El Batey 101 Calle Cristo, Old San Juan, 787/725-1787Looks like a military bunker, complete with a pool table and graffiti covering the walls and ceiling. It has the best oldies juke box in the city and is very popular.

Cabaret La Tasca De Abel 351 Calle Fortaleza, Old San Juan, 787/721-1689Known for its tapas bar and the cabaret show usually including flamenco guitar.

Casinos By law, all casinos are in hotels. The government keeps a close eye on them. Dress for the larger casinos tends to be on the more formal side. the law permits casinos to operate noon-4 am, but individual casinos set their own hours. hotels that house casinos have live entertainment most weekends, restaurants, and bars; drinks are usually served in the casino to players. the minimum age is 18.

Dance Clubs Egipto The Club Av. Robert Todd, Santurce, San Juan, 787/725-4664 or 787/725-4675 For live music and dancing. Wednesdays are casual nights and Thursday-Saturday are dressy dancing nights. Upstairs is a cigar bar.

La Fiesta Lounge Condado Plaza Hotel And Casino, 999 Av. Ashford, San Juan 787/721-1000 Steamy Latin Shows.

Houlihan's Av. Ashford, Condado, San Juan 787/723-8600 This restaurant has an upstairs nightclub popular with the local party crowd

Martini's 187 Av. Isla Verde, Isla Verde, 787/791-6100 Ext. 356 Thursday, Friday, and Saturday Nights. Dance music, live performances, record parties, and fashion shows.

Music Clubs

Café Matisse Av. Ashford Condado, San Juan, 787/723-7910 Live jazz and blues, classic rock and roll, and poetry readings Tuesday-Sunday.

Café Tabac 262 Calle Fortaleza, Old San Juan 787/725-6785. Live Latin music, Jazz, and an occasional art exhibit Thursday-Sunday